The Shoe Snob Blog

May 23, 2019

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The Perfect Cap Shine

A lot of people get overzealous with their shoe shining and want to cover the entire toe cap using the cap line as their metric of measurement. The problem with this ideology is pattern making has come a long way since the days of solely very traditional and classic shoes were being made. That means that the cap line is not always the defining indicator of where the toe puff ends. And what that means […]

May 22, 2019

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The Workman Boot by Joe Works

I normally don’t like that Red Wing boot look. That extra thick neutral stitching that smacks you in the face and is everywhere on the boot. You know what I mean? As a relatively skinny guy who dresses the part of a skinny guy with slim trousers and whatnot, that heavier look makes me look quite silly. So I could never really get down with it. But these dressier version Workman boots by Japanese shoe […]

May 21, 2019

Graziat Taipei – Newcomers on the Block Making Noise!

Here is the start of many new Asian companies that will grace the pages of The Shoe Snob Blog. It is a new era in shoemaking and places like Vietnam and Shanghai are quickly gaining ground in making some very high-quality footwear. And you will start to see more and more of this in the future as brands are popping out left and right. The one highlighted here is Graziat Taipei, who specializes in patina, […]

May 17, 2019

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J.M. Weston x Yohei Fukuda – 598 Derby ReInvention

French shoe powerhouse J.M. Weston has recently teamed up with Japanese bespoke shoemaker extraordinaire, Yohei Fukuda to somewhat reinvent Weston’s super classic and Iconic 598 Derby model. I am not going to lie, I thought the collaboration was a lot cooler than it actually is as I was under the impression that Yohei would be handmaking the J.M.Weston design but the fact of it is that the shoes are simply J.M. Westons shoes but with […]

May 15, 2019

Salvatore Ferragamo Wholecut Oxfords – Gancini Line

We often forget that some of the brands that are now considered ‘designer’ brands started off as one of the greats and actually paved the way for many other brands to adapt to the making and follow suit. Ferragamo is one of those brands. While they make the majority of their money from blake stitched and/or glued footwear, the truth is that they can still make a very well made shoe. And that well-made shoe […]

May 10, 2019

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The Unlined Collection by Carmina Shoemaker

I have always had mixed feelings when it comes to unlined shoes. Some make them look great as they look like normal shoes, others then make them overly deconstructed looking and that is what ruins it for me as it is just something that doesn’t sit right in my head for a dress shoe to look like a pancake. But Carmina Shoemaker of Mallorca, Spain is definitely one of those that have made a beautiful […]

May 9, 2019

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Handstitching the Upper

All photos and process courtesy of Japanese Bespoke Shoemaker, Eiji Murata aka Main D’or. Hand-stitching an upper is no easy feat. When you look at the pictures it probably seems easy. But allow me to tell you that it is tough and mainly for the precision involved. The smallest error can result in cracking leather or crooked stitching and the shoe is pretty much ruined when that happens as there is no correcting it. But […]

May 7, 2019

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A Guide to Leather

There are many different types of leathers that are used on footwear these days. And many different styles to the same type of leather so allow me to break down the most common options and tell you a bit about each, sharing what their plus and minuses, myths and all of the other opinions I might have on each. Calfskin – Saying calfskin is like saying the word ‘car.’ It’s the general type of leather […]