Whether you are looking for the ultimate in formality or just a solid dress shoe that can fulfill all your needs, the whole-cut dress shoe will always be your perfect choice. The whole-cut is the ultimate dress shoe as it can never look out of place underneath a suit or even just your tailored trousers. There is a reason that it continues to stay a popular model among shoe aficionados and gentlemen alike. Let us take a look at the brief history and different variations of the whole-cut shoe.
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A Brief History
While there is no precise pin-pointing of the year the whole-cut shoe was introduced, it is likely that it was created in the 19th century when men’s style took a more contemporary turn that we still see today in proper trousers. The Victorian style of dress utilized creased trousers and an often formal look. With affluent society on the rise, and frequent parties to boot, the demand for refinement became more prevalent. A lack of seams cluttering the upper leather became synonymous with elegance. And so was born the whole-cut shoe as the ultimate in elegant dress shoe attire.
Modern Day Use
Today the whole-cut shoe is a common option for most gentlemen who dress in a business-oriented look for work. It is a staple piece in any man’s wardrobe and therefore remains a very popular choice for anyone looking to get into the world of dress shoes. It is also among the most commonly used shoes for weddings. Its sleek nature lends perfectly to the elegant nature of the wedding, assuring that all who wear them are properly attired for the event.
The most common whole-cut shoe is the black calf option. Yet, we are seeing more and more variations of whole-cut shoes on the rise, not only in terms of colors but also in style. Whereas, in the Victorian Era, you found a simple shoe in black seam-free, you now find them with decorations and in leather types, not in the slightest deemed as formal.
The Traditional Whole-Cut
This type of whole-cut is simply the one that was created in the Victorian Era whereby you had a back seam on a one-cut upper piece of leather in the traditional oxford style. This version is by far the most prevalent and popular option for its simplistic nature and widespread distribution. Nearly every serious shoe brand has one on offer.
The Decorated Whole-Cut
Some shoemaker years ago must have gotten bored with the traditional choice and decided to do something about it. While I cannot be 100% certain, I presume the first alteration was simply adding a medallion to the toe area. Since then, however, you can find all types of decorations on a whole-cut model. From medallions to laser-cut designs and floating stitching, there are now all kinds of ways to remake the whole-cut shoe. See here a plethora of variations that are becoming more popular to achieve by creative footwear brands.
The Seamless Whole-Cut
The newest of all versions, the seamless whole-cut is the Holy Grail of all shoes for its difficulty in making. This version can only be created by hand by skilled shoemakers. This process cannot (as of now) be achieved in a factory production due to the unique lasting of the upper done. Very few makers outside of bespoke offer this option, except one brand: Blkbrd Shoemaker (see below).
How To Wear Them
If you are new to dress shoes, the whole-cut shoe should be at the top of your list of models to acquire. It is versatile, practical, and above all, elegant. But, be careful when styling them. A whole-cut shoe is seen as formal. Pairing them with jeans is tricky in traditional calfskin leather. But it can look nice with denim in suede. On the contrary, they are easily situated underneath any creased trousers and even look good underneath your smartly cut chinos. Below, you will find three options, by Septieme Largeur, wearing them smart casual, casual, and formal.
—Justin FitzPatrick, The Shoe Snob
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Empress
These look very dapper and very delicate to wear in terms of keeping them from creasing.
Benjy
Is it just me, or do whole-cuts take on polish better than other forms of footwear?I notice that both of my burgundy derbies achieve a brilliant polish easily, even when I use cream instead of wax.
The Shoe Snob
It would seem to me that they do take a polish better because there isn't any stitching to get in the way of the shine. Stitching does not become shiny and the part of the leather that sits next to another piece of leather sewed on top of it is hard to get shiny as well. That might be confusing. For example on a cap toe, the cap is sewed on top of the vamp (where your foot bends at the bottom of your toes) and where leather closest to that seem of the cap is really hard to get to. With a whole cut there is not any stitching to create these complications
Benjy
Great insight, and would the reason why my full-brogue wingtips rarely maintain an adequate shine be due to the many perforations and stitching?I know they're supposed to be worn in casual settings, but there are few things that are more addictive to look at than a brilliant shine on tobacco/caramel calf IMHO.
The Shoe Snob
Benjy,yes you are correct, the more stitching/perforations the harder to maintain the shine.
Anonymous
About the comment "The fact that it has no stitching (apart from the heel, which is inevitable)" is not totally true. Shoes done in REVERSE WRAPPED WHOLE CUT(s) can has no visible stitching at the heel. G&G, EG have similar shoes that have not stitching at the heel.
The Shoe Snob
Dear Anonymous – You are right! Only a few makers can do this and I think that at the time that I wrote this I was not under the awareness of anyone who could and have just yet to change it. Thanks for reminding me. -Justin, "The Shoe Snob"
The Extravaganzalist
Very nice, but I do miss the famous wholecut of Dimitri Gomez!!
The Shoe Snob
The Extravaganzalist – Thanks! You will find that shoe elsewhere on the blog, I can't remember where but I know that I have put it up.-Justin, "The Shoe Snob"
Anonymous
I know you're the shoe snob and you'll wrinkle your nose at this, but I saw these shoes online at Charles Tyrwhitt:http://www.ctshirts.co.uk/men's-shoes/men's-classic-shoes/Brown-ashland-calf-leather-whole-cut-shoes?q=gbpdefault||MC077BRN|||||4057,||||||||and they seem quite nice. What is your take on them? I plan to use them as work shoes – wearing them with dress trousers (not suits) and shirts. Do you approve?Thanks 🙂
Justin FitzPatrick, "The Shoe Snob"
Anonymous – I would say that I approve. I cannot be so snobbish to say that people should only buy expensive shoes, as not everyone can afford them. I think that the shape of these is more than reasonable and even though pictures can sometimes be deceiving, they look quite good. I am also glad to see that you are buying brown and not black…Don't be afraid to wear them with a navy suit, it would look nice..-Justin