Polish Your Shoes Properly
Dear Readers,
Alas, here is the content that you have all been waiting for. As you will see, I have written it in detailed form as well as provided an instructional video at the very bottom of this post, of which both will hopefully allow you to learn how to shine your shoes properly. However, these in reality will simply be a tool of guidance as the only real way to learn is through trial and error. Believe me, when I first started, it was all polishing and no shine. Nothing but a dull shoe. But as I kept up at it and learned from my mistakes, it got easier and easier and now you can see the results that I am able to achieve with a spare few hours time.
You did hear that right: a few hours time. Polishing your shoes properly, to a mirror like shine takes a lot of time and patience. It is not done in 5 nor 20 minutes and those shoe shine chairs that give you a very nice shiny polish on your shoes, is simply not the same as what you are seeing here. This is a shine built through the building up of polish into the pores of the leather. There is no way to do it quickly. There is a way to shine a shoe quickly, of course, but not to get a proper glass like finish. That can only be done in manner of which you see in this post.
I hope that you all enjoy what you read and see here.
Best
Justin, “The Shoe Snob”
Let me start off by saying that, in my beliefs, there is a profound difference between a polish and a shine. And what I do, is a polish and that is defined in the dictionary as, ‘to make smooth and glossy.’ And to achieve that, one needs to use their hands and have ample free time. That being said, you can see (above, left) the pair of Crockett & Jones’ that I had to work with. These were the most perfect shoes I could have for my post as they had some leftover polish on them. That is important because time and time again I have had customers come in with their 10 year old shoes, that have just been caked with layer upon layer of polish right on top of each other. And the bad thing about this, is that you see cracked polish everywhere and it is not pretty, yet they tend to just polish on top of that, which does not make it go away, but rather help to set it in.
Instead, one should remove the excess polish and start fresh again, each time they wish to create a new shine (edit: this is only in the case that you give your shoes strictly mirror like shines and assuming that there is cracking polish build up as in the case of this shoe. If not, then there is not a need to strip the leather every time, just use a bit of leather conditioner to replenish the shoe before applying your next shine). So that’s what I did. Now, you can do this several ways depending on how bad it is set in. For the sake of time, I used a little bit of help with the nail polish remover and added it to a rag in order to easily remove the old polish. (But before I did that, I brushed the shoe down with a horsehair brush to remove dirt and dust, as well as took out the laces) Sometimes this can be done with this liquid and sometimes you can use alcohol spirits instead of nail polish remover or stuff even more soft like Renomat (see below). The only thing is to be careful with whatever liquid that you use because you can take the finish with you if you rub too hard.
With old polish
Removed old polish
Both clean of old polish
One shoe with, one shoe without old polish
Mink oil renovator found at www.theshoesnob.com for £13 (ex vat £10.83)
Now the next thing that you need to do is to rejuvenate the leather. You can do this with many different products: saddle soap, mink oil renovator or some cream based conditioner (edit: I don’t personally think that cream based conditioner provides as much as the shoe needs in terms of nutrients, but others swear by it). What I always use is my mink oil renovator, as shown above. You do this step in order to soften up the leather and get it ready to absorb the polish better, as well as clean off any dirt or dust that may have been missed from the brush. To get it deeply into the leather, I apply it with my two fingers that are wrapped by a cotton t-shirt that I cut up. I also use this same method to apply the polish but use a different t-shirt to do so, as to not mix the products together. After applying the conditioner, it is best to let the shoe dry for at least 20 minutes. And you will notice that in between each stage there needs to be this dry time period as to not over-soak the leather and allow for the products to truly set into the leather.
I currently use my Shoe Snob cream polish which is very good for color rejuvenation. Found at The Shoe Snob Shop.
Cream polish for £12 (ex vat £10), found at www.theshoesnob.com
The next step is to apply the first round of polish with an applicator brush (as shown above). I use a cream-based for this step (not a wax) as it is better for bringing back the color. You do this to really get the polish into the leather and want to make sure that you hit ever part of the shoe, like the welt and the stitching areas. Do not cake on the polish but apply thinly and evenly around the whole shoe. This step can be particularly tricky when dealing with a very light colored shoe, as light leather can sometimes be easily affected by moisture (i.e. the polish) if not applied carefully. So if you do have a very light tan shoe, I always suggest applying a small amount on the inside heel first to see how the leather reacts and if it does darken, then quickly and lightly brush that spot with the soft bristled horsehair brush to make it spread evenly. And just know that some light leathers are going to darken no matter what, so deal with it if it happens. After this stage, let the shoe sit for at least 20 minutes again.
The next step is to add the wax polish, by hand. In my opinion, a bee’s wax based polish with turpentine gives off the best shine. You will find that most of the higher end polishes have these ingredients and they are also very much used in the production of shoe polish made by French based companies (i.e. where they do the best patina’s and shines). When you apply this, you want to give it those little round about motions and do so evenly and thoroughly throughout the whole shoe. You also don’t want to be shy in applying a little bit of pressure when doing so, but not too much that you are cramping your fingers nor damaging the leather, just enough to really get into the pores of the skin. Speaking of pores, the way to get that mirror like shine, of which I am showing, is to completely fill in the pores of the leather in order to create a flat surface that then looks like glass. Getting back on subject, you want to apply 1-2 layers of wax polish for this step before going on to the next one. Let the shoe sit for 10-20 minutes.
Picture at bottom of this column of pictures: 1 tin of dry wax polish, 1 tin of fresh (and moist) wax polish, 1 tin of water (on the right). When the leather simply won’t turn flat and glossy, use the dry polish to get it there. Sometimes using the moist polish will never allow the leather to be dry enough to truly set in the polish (unless you want to wait overnight between each stage).
Beeswax shoe polish for £12 (ex vat £10), found at www.theshoesnob.com
This next step is the hardest and in reality, will be what you will have to learn on your own, just by continuously doing it. That being, I will still try and walk you through it. As you have already applied several layers of polish onto the shoe, you have a nice coat on by now which will allow you to directly add water to the mix, as in the old spit’n’shine. The way that I do this, is to again affix the t-shirt to my hand, and then lightly dab my wedding finger (or equivalent on right hand) into the tin of water to get a drop of it on the tip to then apply to the leather before polishing over. Look at pictures to see. Again, I dab my finger into the water, then dab my two polish fingers into the wax, apply the drops of water onto the leather, then rub away the water with the polish in circular motions. Repeat and do for 1-2 hours throughout the entire shoe (1-2 hours being however many stages are required, not in one application). This is the only way of really explaining it. The only thing to look out for is to make sure that you do not apply too much water and thus over-soak the leather or leave a water stain. If you do so you will have to let the shoe sit and dry for awhile before starting again. A way to knowing when you are close is to feel the leather and how it will get smoother and smoother after each layer. And when you feel like you are nearly there, I always recommend letting the shoe dry overnight before applying the final layer of wax’n’water.
After completing the shine, the last touch is to take a piece of black nylon (think women’s tights) and rub it around the shoe, as this will help to take off dust, blend in the polish residue left behind from the cotton shirt and bring up that shine even more! And to maintain the shine, you should just use this nylon to wipe down your shoe every night. And that’s it!
Well I hope that this helps out. Best of luck and don’t be afraid to send me pics if any of you manage to get the mirror shine!!
-Justin, “The Shoe Snob”
TO PURCHASE PRODUCTS I CURRENTLY USE, CLICK HERE
Video below brought to you by a collaboration between myself and Watch Anish
Curious – why don’t you buff the shoes to get the shine?
Justin – thanks fir the great guide. It wasn’t clear to me, though, whether you buff off the polish between layers, or let the build on each other (before the water step).
Hi Justin – great website!
RE polishing shoes – I have the same question as Matthew, below. In Mr Porter’s video the polishing brush only appears to be used to brush off the dirt. What is the next step after applying the conditioner? (eg let soak in, brush off or cloth off or all in that order). Similarly what follows the application of the shoe cream/paste? When it comes to the polishing stage, have I understood the process correctly in that it consists of the application of polish/water, leave for 10-20mins, then apply another coat and so on. At the end of the application stage is the only finishing you use the polishing with the nylon stocking, or do you buff off the polish with a brush or some other tool before hand?
Cheers, Mark
Lovely pair of Crockett & Jones Edgeware.
Anon – Indeed, it’s my favorite C&J model.
-Justin, “The Shoe Snob”
I work at C&J and its good to see people truely taking care of their shoes, nothing like polishing a great pair of English made shoes. This is a very good educational piece. If all took note, their leather upper would last longer and look good with it.
James – You are very right. Only a little bit on conscious maintenance can truly add a lot of life to the shoe, but people unfortunately forget this…Thanks for commenting.
-Justin, “The Shoe Snob”
Hi Justin. I’m a 16 year old boy that enjoys fine quality shoes. I wan’t to know what approach is best to get the highest polish possible on leather. Can you give me steps more comprehensive than these I would much appreciate it. I want to know (as a teenager) can a trainer be polished similar to a shoe if the leather is of a similar quality. Lastly can you explain in greater detail how to patina shoes.
P.S. What processes can one implement to dye shoe in more exotic colors other than common black,white,brown,grey,and tan.
I have been a bootblack for 12 years and we have hereI am currently training to be a cobbler. I agree with your methods for shoe care. However it does not take 3 hours to achieve that high-gloss shine.I am located in Detroit, MI. I love the Edward Green shoe polish line. The consistancy is lighter than other products here in the states. Also a tee shirt is to heavy. Try a cloth baby diaper. to achieve that shine is touch.
Moe Draper – Considering that you have 9 years more experience, you might be able to do it quicker. But I do the entire shoe, not just the toe and heels. It may be hard to tell, because my camera and lighting is crap. Thanks for the recommendation on the cloth baby diaper. Not quite sure what that is, as I have not yet had kids, but will go to the store to try and find one. Thanks for sharing.
-Justin, “The Shoe Snob”
mate, i’ve got a pair of brown leather cavendish crockett and JOnes Is there a way I can make them a darker brown?
Will all your items be available to buy online?
Thanks
Owen
Owen B – See email that I sent you
-Justin
Enjoyed Your Articles on Polishing Brown Shoes. I recently have been experimenting with a pairs of medium brown shoes using only clear shoe polish. Over time they have developed a wonderful Light Mahogany Patina bringing out the natural grain in the leather along with reddish brick-like tones. I always receive compliments and these are every other day work dress shoes. The leather is far more luxurious with added character, than when they were brand new out of the box.
Blessings,
Thomas
Thomas – Thanks for sharing sir. And too true you are about how a shoe’s leather will naturally patina to create something that is much more appealing and unique to the eye then a shoe that is freshly out of the box. Some of the most beautiful shoes that I have ever seen were over 20 years old and had created a natural patina that could have never been replicated by hand.
-Justin
Good post and blog.
What are your thoughts on cleaning distressed leather? How would you go about removing strains without spoling the worn and aged look of the shoe, while also maintainting the leather?
Anon – This is difficult, especially without seeing the shoe. But a stain is a stain, they usually don’t come out. Sometimes they can, depending on the stain, but this is still tricky and can ruin the shoe if not careful. But I don’t think that distressed leathers are meant to be shiny. They are meant to be distressed and rugged looking. At least that is what I imagine when you say distressed….sorry I could not be of more help.
-Justin
Great post.
Is it normal for the tip/ cap of (light) brown shoes to be darker than the rest after a polish? I have also seen the opposite with regards to a darkbrown shoe.
Brgds
Brgds – only after the polish? As in, the shoe was all one color and then after a shine treatment they turn darker at the tip? No, that should not happen. But you will find that many light brown shoes these days, have a bit of a darker toe, called a burnish, that was added at the factory. But giving the shoe a shine with a low pigment wax polish, should not make the toe darker, nor lighter for a darker pair. Could be that many people like to emphasize the toe, adding more polish to it and not the rest of the shoe, therefore leaving a darker leather because of that. But if applied evenly all the way round, this should not happen. I hope that this has helped.
-Justin
I think anonymous/brgds means something like this:
http://the-shoe-snob.blogspot.com/2011/10/shoes-of-year-bespoke-gaziano-girling.html
AFJ – That was a reverse patina. It was intentionally made lighter by taking off the finish, it was not due to the polish.
-Justin
I have just used Justin’s Mink oil on my shoes and the smell is absolutely awesome :o) I have spent ages trying to find that beautiful smell of leather, the one cars used to have, and Mink oil is it. The entire price is worth it just for that lingering essence, let alone the preservative qualities! I am buying another pot right now.
Rog – Glad that you are enjoying the product. Thanks for the shout out!
-Justin
Hello Justin,
your blog is beautiful and this guide is very useful!
Best Regards
Andrea
I was the fourteen year old Canadian who was just recently at you Gieves & Hawkes stand and you mentioned a way of using a hot spoon to melt the wax into the pores. Would it be possible for you to go into detail about the process. I am in the Royal Canadian Air Cadets and it would be a significant help. Your handmade shoes look amazing.
Thank you
Andrea – Thank you sir!! I am glad that you appreciate it.
Mudboy11 – Glad that you enjoy the shoes! Well, it probably won’t be necessary for your first polish, but afterwards when you have to maintain that mirror-like gloss shine, and the polish on your boots have cracked from wearing, you will want to heat up a spoon with a lighter to get it nice and hot and then rub that into the places that it has flaked off in order to smooth those areas out so that you can polish over them. But you can only do this on black shoes as you are essentially burning the leather and it will stain on anything else but black leather. Once you do it the first time it will become more evident of what you need to do….
-Justin
Hi Justin,
Just wondering what you recommend for suede shoe care? I know to brush in the direction of the suede but what would you recommend for stains etc.?
Thanks for the help,
Matt
Matt – Sorry for the late reply, I somehow overlooked the fact that I had a comment to attend to. Nevertheless, I have found you once again and will hope to help you out. In reality, I haven’t took the time to become an expert at suede due to the delicate nature of it and not wanting the responsibility of misguiding people which could end up in ruined shoes. That being, there are many factors that will play into this scenario, e.g. color of suede, depth of stain, how long it’s been there etc. For light suede shoes, I am useless. Once those get stained it’s very hard to clean them again. I have heard of people using bleach to get the color off (for patina purposes), which I am sure could be used for stains as well, but the catch would be regaining the color of the suede. For dark suede, I would just brush profusely with the metal bristles on the suede brush and for light suede the same but making sure it’s a brand new brush. I hope that this helps at all….if not, search the pages of Style Forum…there are many knowledgeable gentleman on there.
-Justin
I received my first pair of real shoes 2 weeks a ago, CJ Connaught in black.
I tried to get a mirror-like cap shine with the spit-shine method. I used ordinary shoe cream just once before applying the shoe polish in a total of 3 layers. The problem is the polish will not settle. I have no problems getting the shine, but once i slide my finger over the surface, it leaves traces from the finger.
I tried again tonight 2 weeks later with the same technique. However, this time i skipped the shoe cream and went straight for the polish. Went over the shoes 3 times with polish, roughly 40 minutes per shoe in total. This time it was even easier to achieve the mirror, but I didn’t manage to finish the polish without leaving the shoe easily disturbed by whatever that came in contact with it.
I used the same technique on another pair of shoes that are much older with quite different results, where the surface is completely smooth and the polish really got into the shoe. The only difference was that I then did a better job with 3 sets of shoe cream before I started went on with the polish for another 3 sets.
Should I remove the polish and start all over again with 3 sets of shoe cream from the start before applying the polish?
Anon – When you ask the question at the bottom are you referring to your new C&J’s? My suggestion is to wear them a bit before you try to put on that mirror shine. The problem that I have always found with most shoes, and particularly C&J’s, is that in the beginning, the leather does not accept the polish as well. It’s almost as if the pores are more closed when the shoe is newer, and they open up as you wear it more, projecting humidity from your feet. That being, wear the shoes a little while and then give it a go, again. Unless there is cracking that is noticeable, I wouldn’t say take it all down and re-start. Just start with the wax polish and it should build up this time. But remember, you need to let each layer dry before applying the next one. I hope that this helps
-Justin
This may seem like a sacrilegious question, but I recently bought a pair of cap toe oxfords from Bruno Magli that have dark brown burnished leather. This was my first fore into a more quality shoe. Unfortunately after about a wear, I just am unhappy with the burnished look throughout the shoe. So, my question was can the burnish be polished over for a little more consistency?
Anon – Will answer you more thoroughly via the email that you sent me.
-Justin
Just came across this very helpful guide (there were some things I was doing suboptimally, it seems), but I have question
Do you have any tips for how to polish up a twotoned pair of shoes like a saddle shoe? It seems like it would be difficult to apply two different colors of polish to each tone, but I’m not familiar with using clear polishes either, and do not know how effective they are.
Typical polish brushes are too blunt of an instrument to carefully apply polish to each color, would there be a better instrument?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
(Since you seem to prefer email for replies, mine can be found in my Blogger profile.)
Ariston – Well, this is going to vary depending on the type of polish that you use, but if you use a wax polish, such as mine, which is not strong in color pigmentation, then you could use one color to shine the entire shoe. For example, if you had a dark brown shoe with a light tan saddle, then I would use a light tan to shine the entire shoe if I did not want to really affect the saddle area, but you could also use the dark brown polish to give the tan saddle a sort of aged look. But I don’t use brushes…I use a cloth, as shown in the post. Brushes are really just for the welt and sole area and to get into parts of the leather that are losing their finish. I hope that this made sense. BTW, no need to use neutral…it will only leave white residue…
-Justin
Hi can you help.
I tried to renovate one of my older slightly cheaper pair of Jeffrey west shoes (black line not my welted ones)
The nail polish remover completely took some of the dark tan colour off down to a dull light tan and in some areas completely off (only tiny patches) is there anything I can do other than throw them in the bin.
Has this just happened as they are cheaper finished leather. I ask as i have a more expensive welted pair of jw shoes in a shiny walnut colour and I don’t wa t the same to happen to them
Adam – Are you based in London? If so, then you should bring them to me so that I can see them as it is hard to give advice without seeing or touching the shoes. But they should not be completely ruined…there is always dye that you can apply to them…it could have happened because they were a cheaper leather. Nail polish remover will take the finish off of most (if not all) leathers though…
-Justin
Thanks. I’m based just outside London and will be shoe shopping (strangely) down there is a few weeks.
I’ll drop by g&h
Thanks for the informative guide. Your blog is exceptional, and my only misgiving is that I can read faster than you can type!
Seriously, though, you’re a great asset to the sartorial community. Thanks for the time you put into your blog.
Best wishes,
Emilio
Adam Jones – Sounds good, I will look forward to meeting you then!
Emilio – I truly appreciate the kind words. It’s very nice of you to say. Thank you.
-Justin
Thank you for this great guide. Although I’ve attempted mirror shines in the past, I never really got it right until I read this guide. Thank you for explaining the science behind it. That helped me understand the process better than any Youtube videos could.
Here are the results from my end:
https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/399571_10150956826003196_1156168081_n.jpg
First Synn – Good job! Glad that I could be of help and thanks for the nice comments.
-Justin
I was sceptical at first, but used your technique on a pair of old and abused brown slip on’s and the results were brilliant!
I liked it so much that I ended up polishing 3 more pairs of my shoes today. Thanks so much. I still use a pair of woman’s tights to buff my shoes at the end. Works so well.
Justin, many thanks for this. I’ve been looking for advice like this for a while.
One question: the other day, I had to park my car on some muddy grass and, you guessed it, had to walk through it with my brand new dress shoes which are now muddy! What’s the best way to clean the mud off fully before polishing?
Anon – Glad to have helped my friend and give you a bit of inspiration to jazz up your shoes…
Adam – No worries sir, glad to help out. In all honesty, I just wet a cloth and wipe it all off. Let them dry and then do your polishing. Water is not leathers friend, but if used properly won’t harm it either if you need to clean it.
-Justin
Warning: About to commence rant.
Today I was in an Australian department store and wanted to buy a pot of Angelus Wax polish. After waiting at the checkout, the salesman told me to stay away from
wax polish, as my shoes will surely crack.
According to him, Instead I should use a silicon or non silicon based cream, and use an instant shine buffer when I leave home to go out! He demonstrated
the instant shiner on a pair of corrected grain shoes (he called them lacquered) and the result looked like a shiny plastic toy.
And apparently, Silicon is good for shoes!!!!!! But the little bit of turps in old fashioned polish will crack the shoe in the creases!!! (Note: I am aware silicon compounds are often used as the solvent in wax polish).
Never use leather conditioner on shoes (while he is trying to sell me a leather conditioner).
Also, wax doesn’t waterproof the shoe any better than cream.
If your shoes are navy blue leather you only use neutral cream on them.
Oh, apparently Loake’s and Church’s are the only Goodyear Welted shoes.
And you should always have topy soles, and they don’t affect the flexibility of the shoes.
Oh, shoes never used to be dyed the whole way through the leather upper and when you scratched them the leather underneath was white.
At least he did acknowledge that applying wax could prevent scuffs.
Rant Over.
Now, I know the guy was being well meaning and has been selling shoes for many years, and I didn’t know everything he was talking about (different dying methods etc.),
but I think not using a wax polish is bad advice. I used to believe in creams over wax, however, since converting to a wax’n water shine, I can say that it’s protection from scuffs and water, and the
deep rich glassy look it gives the shoe makes a shoe without the mirror shine look second rate.
Unfortunately, this advice seems ubiquitous.
Not to say that leather conditioner doesn’t have it’s use and place, but for example, who would condition their leather jacket after 4 wears? Maybe every
2 years? If anything, using a neutral cream every fortnight just stained scuffed areas of my shoes are pulled out colour.
Anon – Wow, that’s funny…. sometimes though it’s frightening to me that there are people out there who are like this and our so confident that they convince other people (who don’t know any better) of this bad information. Luckily you know better…I am not sure I would have been able to contain myself in giving him a piece of my mind… thanks for sharing
-Justin
Justin thank you very much for all the information have just done my first pair following your expert guidance ,and thou far from your level ,very happy with my attempt .thanks again .
Great blog
Paul – No worries Paul!! I am always happy to share my knowledge and experiences and am happy to hear that one of them is serving you well!
-Justin
Hi Justin
I have just bought a pair of these edgewares and am in love with them.
Some suggest polishing before use for the first time. Would you say this is worthwhile?
Also on the subject of removing old polish. I don’t want to use anything harsh like nail polish remover or other solvents, is there anything mild I can use? Will regular use of something like saddle soap do the trick?
Thanks Justin, this is very clearly explained and I look forward to giving my shoes a proper polish.
Would you be so kind however as to clarify one part: “1 tin of dry wax polish, 1 tin of fresh (and moist) wax polish, 1 tin of water (on the right). When the leather simply won’t turn flat and glossy, use the dry polish to get it there. Sometimes using the moist polish will never allow the leather to be dry enough to truly set in the polish”
Does this mean we need two tins of wax polish, in addition to the one tin of normal polish? I’m a little confused with this bit – if that’s the case, what are they for?
All best.
Anon – you can surely polish before first wear, but do so lightly. Don’t try and give a mirror shine, as this will end up in lots of cracking….
as far as your other question goes, well this is hard to explain, as the term “removing old polish” is very much used casually. A condition such as saddle soap will never really remove polish, but will just help to counteract its affects. If your shoes are not cracked in any places (from mirror like polishing), then it is not necessary so much to “remove” the polish, you can just condition it. However, if you are one to give constant mirror shines to your shoes, then yes one day you will eventually want to start fresh and remove all of the old polish, and unfortunately the only real way to do this is with a solvent of some type….
I hope that this helps….
Alex – Ideally yes, you should have a tin of paste/cream polish (for color rejuvenation), a tin of dry wax polish (meaning a tin of regular wax polish that has dried a bit from the cap being removed), and a tin of moist (or new) wax polish. This is ideal but not necessary. If you just have the moist (or new) tin of wax polish, then you will just have to wait longer in between stages to allow the polish to dry on the leather….
best,
-Justin
Thank you for the great run through. Thanks to you I’ve just successfully finished restoring a pair of boots to beauty. To finish off i coated them with tragacanth which sort of seals and adds to the shine.
I have yet to find a way to make the leather of dress shoes more water resistant. What would you propose? I have carnauba wax and beeswax to go from. Any tipps?
Come2Berlin – A mirror-like polish is about as water resistant as I know how to make shoes…..sorry I couldn’t help further…I don’t really like to recommend any chemical type products…just a good wax shine should do the trick
-Justin
Nice new video Justin.
Matt – Thank you sir!
-Justin
Definitely a fantastic video. For a fab site.
Can I just ask is you mink oil made by avel as there mink oil renovator seems very similar. Both fantastic but avel/saphir products are very hard to obtain in the uk. Without expensive delivery. Also being such a large size yours works out to much better value than importing from France.
Even if it isn’t it is still just as good and a must for everyone who reads this blog
Anon – funny that you should ask…Avel actually just bought the company that makes my mink oil, but no, they are not the same as Saphir’s (who is owned by Avel)….they have their own ingredients and mixture…. but it is similar….
-Justin
Have you ever thought about your own brushes? Until you do what do you recommend. I have been looking online and ebay/ stores in london recently found some great ones however I didn’t know what to go for. Some with horse hair some with boar hair. With a huge price variant. From around 10 for a Jones / saphir horse hair up to 50 for a jm Weston brush.
I don’t mind spending if with it and i know anything will be better than an old kiwi one but is a 50 Weston brush better than say a 30 crocket and jones one?
I have just got a pair of C&J in chestnut antique calf.
If I was to use Kiwi brown polish paste and a brown wax that should be ok?
On one of your links the hangar project the recommend that after stripping the polish with something called renomat then to apply a dubbin and leave for two days to soak in. Is this worth the time?
Justin,
I purchased several tins of your shoe polish, renovator and laces… WOW !! what great polish it is… I will be purchasing more and want to thank you for refunding overpayment for the shipping!! Love the products and highly suggest your readers purchase from you as well !
Chuck
Paul – Yes, I actually have my own brushes, just have not yet released them for sale….I have been amassing a proper collection of products to release, with a proper website and all….shoe brushes, shoe trees, polish, laces etc….and in the future possibly even socks…if you are the same Paul that is coming to the shop today, i will show you the brushes…
Anon1 – I would use tan colors on that shade….not browns….
Anon2 – I can personally tell you that I am not a fan of dubbin….i would just use the mink oil renovator….but then again, I have never used renomat before, so can’t comment on the effects that it creates….as far as I know it just strips color….but I have seen what dubbin does to leather and if applied not too carefully, it will really oversoak the leather (and darken it)
Chuck – Thank you very much for the comment of support. I am truly happy to hear that you enjoyed the products.
-Justin
Justin, I have only just found your blog. I love it. Lived in Milan for 2 years–more than enough time for a shoe hobbyist to develop an eye for what he likes. And this hobbyist likes Santoni tan-sock Goodyear-welted shoes, and anything from that level of style and quality on up. It seems every other shoe shop in the Moda district has something exclusive, each more spectacular than the last. A footwear treasure hunter’s paradise.
I want to recommend an American sole treatment. It applies with a paintbrush to good quality oak tanned sole leather and the leather just drinks it in. It’s called Leather Honey and though I do not recommend it as highly for tighter grain uppers, the high quality leather you polished in this photo essay would love it. It will double the life of your leather soles with a yearly application (more often if you got your nice leather soles wet). Does a better job on soles than mink oil or Lexol products. Dare I say, a healthier leather conditioner than mink oil? Odorless. Non-greasy. Doesn’t clog pores. Just cleanly lubricates and softens leather fibers the way they should be. Doesn’t build up on the surface, doesn’t trap or attract dirt. I’ve been using the same jar for nearly ten years. A little goes a very long way. Some soles have a finish that doesn’t let the product in. Those soles will crack and dry earlier because without scuffing that finish off there’s no way to feed the leather underneath.
I’d like to see your review of Leather Honey.
I love one American clunker: the good old Chicago Florsheim Kenmoor. For every vintage NOS pair in my closet (and I have them in every grain, hide and color Florsheim ever offered before going to India), this stuff has provided amazing anti-aging flexibility and protection to a collection that is now irreplaceable.
Marvelous for delicate single-sole loafers as well.
Okay, so I’ve waxed rhapsodic about a niche market leather conditioner that was developed to cleanly extend the life of sweaty horse tack so the Amish know all about it, and they use it on their plain jane shoes too.
Dear Justin,
Thanks for the very informative blog. It got me totally obsessed with shoe-shining (my girlfriend hates you for it.)
I know you shine the whole shoe, not just the toe and heels. When I tried this the polish cracked and made ugly white marks in the creases of the vamp, which came out when I wiped the wax away with leather cleaner. I’ve read that many people use only cream polish in the vamp and wax on the toe cap. How do you polish the whole shoe without causing cracks in the glaage?
Cheers,
Harmon
Anon – Thanks for you words of wisdom. I have heard of Leather Honey, but have never used it. To be honest, I don’t put conditioner on my soles at all. I just galoshes on days that I know it’s going to be wet.
As far as it being better than mink oil, well for the sole I cannot comment, but I don’t it’s going to be better for the upper. I have yet to come across something that feeds the leather in such a way that mink oil does. And it also carries the traits that you list, like odorless (in a stinky way, it actually smells really good and stays that way), non-greasy etc…..Maybe one day I will condition my soles with Leather Honey, but if I am going to be honest, I am not going to actively seek it….if I happen to come across by chance, maybe I will buy a tin/jar etc.
Nevertheless, thanks for sharing and for reading. Glad to hear that you enjoy the blog and all the best!
Harmon Siegel – I am happy to hear that you have been enjoying the blog and have started treating your shoes with polish love because of it. Tell your girlfriend, sorry….
As far as your concern, I really don’t shine the vamp as much as the toe, it would just appear that way, as I put a gloss on it that makes it look shiny, but it does not have that glass like consistency that the toe does. But then again on certain leathers, broken in shoes and especially plain toes, you can sometimes get away with polishing heavily on the vamp if the creases have already set in. But still, I really don’t polish the vamp as much, because yes, the flex points will inevitably cause the polish to crack if you have created that mirror-type surface….
-Justin
Hi Justin, thanks for the post and great site.
I have a question for you: I have just finished polishing a old pair of beautiful Alfred Green black dress shoes that i recently acquired. They are quite old but still in amazing condition. I used nail polish remover to remove about 10 years worth of wax build up then proceeded to re-apply polish (C & J). The shoes very quickly took on a mirror shine, however I noticed on one shoe, 2 patches where the polish would not shine. It just seemed to suck up the water and the polish remain dull and would not buff up at all. It looks as if a sealant is missing. I did not apply excess remover to those areas nor did I rub any harder than other areas. In fact the areas that needed the most vigourous rubbing polished up perfectly.
Before I started the process I did not notice any issues with the finish.
Sorry for the long comment, but have you experienced this before? Is there anything I can to treat or reseal the leather in those areas? I am hoping I have not ruined the shoes ad there is something I can do.
Warm regards,
Nick
Hi Justin,
Is it normal that the mirror shine will smudge if brushed by a finger or your pant legs? I can get the mirror shine but it never really seems to set, and Ive noticed the the insides of my pant legs are getting gunked up with polish. I will say that one time I polished my shoes and then wore them on a walk that included a baseball field. Alas, they immediately got very dusty. I went home and just brushed the dust off and the shine came back and seemed to be “set” Im using Saphir Glacage by the by. Thanks for any comment.
Mike z … I just started using saphir polishes as a change from Crockett and jones. I have noticed they are a lot more moist than some polishes and seems to need to use less water to get it to set. Sometimes even alternate layers. So a layer of water and wax then one of just polish but apply in circular motions as you would with water and wax. Then repeat until you get there.
Nick – The only time that I have experienced this is when I have applied to much of something i.e. water or wax and the leather then became oversoaked and once it gets to that point, it won’t absorb anything but just gets worse and worse if you do not just leave it for awhile. This might be the case to your situation, but without seeing pics, it’s really hard to know what is going on….sorry I can’t be of more help…are you London based? If so, you could show them to me if you have not sorted them out yet.
Mike Z. – Yes….a mirror shine is very delicate in reality, but it’s strange that it is marking up your trousers, especially if you are using Saphir, which tends to get into the leather well as opposed to just sitting on the surface….
you might need to leave it to dry more as it take time to let the polish truly set….i usually apply the final layer the next day.
Adam – Thanks for sharing.
-Justin
What do you think is the best way to actually store shoes after polishing. Been using racks but can be awkward. Or should I just use the bags and orig boxes.
Anon – you said it: bags and boxes….
-Justin
Hi Justin,
Thanks for the above reply, but I have a couple lingering concerns.
I was once able to get a mirror- shine on my Wolverines 1000mi Boots as I mentioned but I cleaned them the other day with Lexol Saddle Soap and have not been able to get the mirror shine back. I must have like 12 coats of polish on them now; 7 of which have been wax-water coats. I have tried doing 20 min rests between coats but the previous coats seems to be still moist and you can see the swirlmarks from the previous coat. I’ve let the polish rest for a day between 3 of the coats, but they never really seem to set. I also dont seem to be building much i.e. the shine has increased int he last 4 coats. I even threw the boots in the freezer and then hit them with a brush and that seemed to do the trick but once the temperature normalized that shine was easily smudged. Since you said the key to the shine was to fill in the pores would hitting the polish with a heat gun of blow dryer be a better way to thin the polish so it can get into the pores whilst avoiding the issues of possible excess moisture with the wax-water method. Or is it really a matter of getting the coat to harden i.e. long rest times as this guy proposes (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=c-3ed17J3F8#t=32s) How long would it take you (start-to-finish including rest times) on average to get a pair of out-of-the-box shoes to a mirror shine.
P.S. I think I speak for everyone when I say that I am very thankful for your engagement with the people who post on this site. I think its very gracious of you to continually to share your knowledge. It is really quite awesome to be able to consult with a specialist and have them reply with helpful advice.
Mike Z. – It’s hard to say really what the problem at hand is here, but when I get stories like this, I tend to think that too much product was put on and when that happens the shoe has a hard time of drying out in order to complete the process. To answer your question, yes a heat gun will help….but just make sure that if you use it you do it lightly and from at least 6 inches away….is your polish moist or dry? Try using a dry polish at this point and if that does not work, then you might have to strip it all and start over….
I thank you for your kind words in regards to me and the blog. As a person whom used to yearn for a dedicated shoe source yet not be able to find one, it is my pleasure to be that person who provides that for all of you and do my best to help where I can. Sharing knowledge, for me, progression of society so I take pleasure in spreading what I have learned along my journey.
-Justin
Dear Justin,
I have mirror shined my shoes, with the glass like layer over the toe and a lightly glossed layer over the other parts as you have previously described. When I apply a leather cream/conditioner directly over the wax, it dulls the shine and seems to slowly absorb the cream, even over the glassed toe (it doesn’t remove the wax completely as a quick rub with a cotton cloth restores the shine almost to its previous state although a bit of water and wax is still required for maximal effect). My question is, that is the leather being adequately fed by the cream or is the cream not reaching the leather?
Thanks,
Peter.
Peter – If you are putting the conditioner on when you still have a mirror shine, then you are doing it to soon. Conditioner should be used when the shoe has lost it’s shine and has gotten a bit dry….so to answer your question, it is probably reaching the leather but not adequately if you are applying it while you have a mirror shine…. Hope that this helps.
-Justin
I have a pair of To Boot New Yorks and I have had a few problems, one of them being that the factory burnish has disappeared on one of my shoes! how does this happen? I guess i should just redo the burnish, because I really like it. Also, the sole is separating at the toe, which is really concerning since the shoes are only ~6 months old. Should I just glue it? How can I care better for the sole?
maybe you can see the problems in these pictures: http://imgur.com/FPul0&IVO8I
http://imgur.com/FPul0&IVO8I#1
Pprovencher – Sorry to see this….you are going to want to take it to a cobbler…have you been in a lot of wet weather with them? That’s one way that the burnish will come off, as well as the glue separating from the sole, which will cause it to grin at you as it has done….cobbler is the solution my friend…..
-Justin
Hi Justin,
Thanks for getting back to me and I hope you had a great Christmas. I managed to sort out the Edward Greens. I left them to dry overnight and then added more wax without water to allow the leather to create a new seal. Once that was in place, it allowed me to continue the water and wax method until the shine matched the rest of the shoes.
Once again thank you for taking the time to reply and I hope santa bought you some new shoes!
Happy New Year.
Nick
Nick – My pleasure to help as best as I can my friend. Glad to hear that you were able to sort it out! Happy New Year to you too!
-Justin
Hi I’m about to purchase an expensive pair of chestnut coloured boots, if i wanted to make them slightly darker would it be ok to polish them with a darker polish?? would it work. you could view the boot online they are called the pistol boot by acne in tan/chestnut. would really appreciate your expert advice.
Anon – See response to email that you sent me…
-Justin
Hello Justin!
I have a collection of shoes that are varied in colour, including red, midnight blue, and green. What do you recommend for polishing?
Kind regards
Justin,
My son (10) has a little shoe shine business. He uses a round brush applicator, but over time the polish accumulates and cakes. Any suggestion on how to remove this?
Thanks – Mark
What edge dressing do you prefer? Do you match the sole (brown) or use black?
Jerrell – I would use a wax polish that is as close to those as possible…or you can play around with them, use burgundy on the red, tan/brown on the blue and blue on the green…it’s just depends…if you use wax, you don’t really have to worry about affecting the colors, more so just playing around with the undertones…
Mark – that’s great!! What an entrepreneur!! You will need white spirit to really get it off….or you can scrape it off with something hard, but dull, like a spoon….
David – Match the sole…but I don’t use edge dressing, I use polish…
-Justin
Ok, using polish as edge dressing makes sense! Thank you for sharing your wisdom and experience with us. My shoes thank you too. I hope we can buy your designs in the US soon too.
Thx for all the knowledge on here man! I just bought some Doc’s and am pumped this site has already covered everything I need/will need to know.
Justin,
completely new to this so apologies if the question is a faux pas….
just bought a pair of Church’s and plan on making them last as long as possible. Can you advise on a suitable way to polish leaving a matte finish as opposed to a mirror shine?
Also, do you have any tips for the leather sole treatment? or is this best left as is…
thanks in advance for any help you can give.
David – No worries David…sorry that we weren’t able to confidently agree on a size for my shoes…hopefully they will be selling in the States soon…
Anon – Not a problem my friend
Anon2 – you can do the process that I described here but just don’t carry it out all of the way. Stop after the first application of wax and then you will have a nice shine (but not too shiny) and a bit of protection on the leather…. For sole treatment, well if you really want you can shine the sole just as you would the upper leather…I never do it though….
-Justin
Hello Justin,
I’ve recenlty read an article that advised using a solution consisting of 8 to 9 parts demineralized water and 2 to 1 parts isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) instead of plain water for getting the true shine.
I’ve used it and it seems to work better, it kind of melts the wax better (when using regular water, I had to work longer to make it shine). I use Saphire Patte de luxe as the was polish.
Have you ever used this method ?
Justin,
Thanks again for your original post and your extensive responses to comments – truly a privilege to be able to get expert advice for free!
Whilst your instructions are all that I need for the ‘how’ to polish side of things, but for a shoe newbie like myself I need a bit more help on the ‘tools of the trade’ side in terms of what equipment I need. So if you don’t mind, here are a few questions to pick your brain a bit more to complete this ‘Shoe Shine 101’ course. I hope other people would find this useful too!
– are horse hair brushes much better than normal brushes? Just curious how important a ‘quality’ brush actually is in terms of shoe care.
– I’ve heard that Saphir polishes are ‘best-in-class’, but in what way are they better than more average brands like Kiwi? (saw in your pic that you used them too) Wanted to know whether there is any actual benefit for the price premium.
– Do wax polishes and non-wax polishes(are they referred to as ‘creams’?) do broadly the same thing, w/ exception that wax gives a better ‘shiny’ appearance?
– Presume that silicone as an ingredient in shoe polish is bad for the leather?
– are ‘leather conditioners’ bad for shoes? What do they do and are they necessary? Seems like just polishing shoes regularly is sufficient to care for shoes?
– What do the mink oil ‘renovators’ do? Do they help keep the leather from cracking, or is that what a ‘leather conditioner’ does?
Many thanks in advance for your guidance.
Hi Justin
I’m glad to see I’m not the only one who finishes with an old pair of tights. My husband asked me when we first met why I had a pair in with the shoe polishes. The technique I learned whilst serving in the army is pretty much as you described, although we were all guilty of just adding more and more polish until it became totally pitted (or they were thrown at the wall by a burly Company Sergeant Major who said they weren’t shiny enough!). We used to all sit in the corridor with our shoes, cotton cloths and a tin of polish in the evenings (it was quite a social gathering to be honest!)
Regards, Janine
Sly – yes i have used this method…not with precise measurements or anything but parts water parts alcohol, but as far as it being the true shine, well I just can’t really say that the results are all that different…the best shine is done by burning the wax into the pores, thus creating a true flat surface, which makes you able to create a real mirror shine, like the military gentleman do on their boots…..polish and faucet water seems to do me just fine….
SL – Glad to help where I can my friend, as I too was once a guy with answers and needing someone to look to. It is my pleasure to try and be that guy for all of you…as per your questions, here you go:
-Good question in reality…I have always just assumed horsehair was best as this is what I believe to be ‘common knowledge’, whether it really is I can’t say…I don’t really use a brush to get a shine so for me it’s not really that important, just as long as the bristles are not too soft and bring out a glow, that is what matters to me…
-I don’t actually use them, I use my own branded wax, which is similar. The difference is in the quality of the ingredients, which therefore results in the quality and easiness of your shine, as well as the effects it has to your leather. You see, polish in reality is a product of chemicals, and the higher grade of polish, the less chemicals involved and a bit more natural ingredients, like beeswax. That is not to say that the high grade stuff is all natural, just less harmful to your leather…… If you own cheap shoes than the expensive polish to me is not necessary. If you were expensive shoes then it is. If you owned a Ferrari, would you buy the car wax at your local convenience store or the top grade stuff from the Ferrari dealership?
– No, wax polish provides shine and protection, cream polish provides color, paste does both but not as well as either of the other two do in their respective use
– precisely!
– Definitely not, they are absolutely necessary! Polish in actuality is something that if done excessively without conditioning will dry out your leather and cause it to crack. Remember that leather is a skin, just like yours and does not have a body to heal it, and therefore needs nourishment, which is precisely what conditioner (like mink oil) does.
– See above….
Janine – Well done Janine!! The trick to giving that illustrious finish! Sounds like you have some good memories! Thanks for sharing.
-Justin
Wonderfully informative blog! I just started the switch from sneakers, t-shirts and jeans to more gentlemanly attire, and found this article to be highly beneficial with my latest find, a handmade pair of vintage New & Lingwood Broques, many thanks!
Justin, have been following your blog assiduously and have not seen you mention an old standby that have used for many years “neats-foot oil” how do you feel about it when compared to mink oil which I also use and have just purchased a tub from you, I value your opinion very much have a brother in law who passed away at the age of 94 and I have inherited his army boots that would like to restore if possible; they were in 4 yours of combat on the eastern front during WW2 so you can imagine the condition…..any suggestions on that endeavor?………thanks in advance;
Lou
Hi Justin,
will a shoe cream be able to work with water for a mirror shine as you did with the wax or is that exclusively with wax only? Thanks.
Justin ; Lou again, could you please comment on addressing more exotic shoe leather such as Alligator, Lizard and Ostrich, thanks in advance for any advice;
Lou
Anon 1 – Thank you for the kind words and am happy to hear of your transition!
Lou – can’t say that I have ever heard of it my friend…so I cannot really comment on it…but if it has worked well for you, then by all means…as per the boots, well you might have to burn the wax down to attempt a smooth surface again…it’s hard to say without seeing them really…
Anon 2 – never tried it but I can’t imagine it would as it’s another moisture and will have a hard time drying up to build the shine…if it would work it would probably take days to do….
Lou again – I shine it all the same my friend…and many exotics don’t take a shine anyway, not a real one at least…can’t comment on doing anything different as I don’t do anything different..
-Justin
Justin,
How often should someone shine their shoes, as you described in the post, for a pair of shoes that are warn three times a week? This is a pretty extensive process and I know I wouldn’t be able to take the time every day or even week.
Great article, thanks for taking the time.
-Zach
Zach – If you do this once, you will notice that the base of this shine will be there for a long time, as filling those pores does not easily go away. Therefore, the second time that you need to shine, it will only be a matter of a top up, not having to go through this process each time… At your rate, you might want to polish your shoes once ever other week or once every three weeks…it will really just depend on what happens to them when you do wear them…you will be able to gauge it…
-Justin
Hello, Justin !
I enjoyed reading your tips on getting that shine. lots of love for fine leather there 🙂
I wonder if you can help me with a small problem – the other day, I applied an instant shoe shine to my black shoes, the kind hotel rooms have with a sponge applicator in a circular shallow plastic case. The result was a dull matt finish and despite my efforts to polish them back to a shine with the Cherry Blossom black wax polish I normally use, I am unable to get rid of the dull finish. What should I do? Thanks
Hi Justin, great post! Surely answered a lot of questions I had.
But my only concern now is, I recently got a pair of Allen Edmonds and I am confused on a few things. Could you see if my process is good enough?
In short,
1) Use AE Conditioner/Cleaner
2) Use AE Premium Polish (specific color to my AE’s)
3) (here’s the problem) DO I use a beewax like Kiwi or the ones you sell, to do the remaining 2 layers?
I am confused whether or not the color from AE polish and then applying another 1-2 coats of wax will be too much of different colors?
Thanks
Caelen – while I appreciate your enthusiasm for polishing shoes, I am afraid to say that I cannot go into more detail….even if I did it would be the same..you really only learn by doing it and learning from your mistakes…this is how I learned…I sat and watched people do it for days and could not get it down until I just kept going at it and learning from my mistakes…. As per going into patina work, well I am not an expert in that field, so in reality I cannot go into greater detail as it would not be right….I have done my own jobs just by using common sense but not through expertise…
Sudarshan – you should let your shoes dry as you probably oversoaked the leather with that instant shine brush that is full of chemicals….let the shoes dry for an entire day or two and then give it another go…
Anon – wax is not strong in pigment…Kiwi’s polish is not a real wax..it’s a paste… that has minimal wax qualities…best to use one like mine or other’s of this caliber…one in America that is good is Lincoln….but it dries very easily….so, using a real wax polish will really not affect color, so you don’t have to worry…. I hope that this helped..
-Justin
Hi Justin, great post and I’ve been trying your methods a pair of black Barker loafers, however when I get the shine about halfway to where I want, ie quite glossy but not glassy, I find small scratch like marks in the polish but not the leather. This only seems to get more obvious as the rest of the surface gets glossier meaning in bright light the surface isn’t glass like but instead slightly rough. This also is not present on the unpolished shoe so I know the leather is smooth. I use a cotton T shirt and Kiwi wax polish as you recommend. Any tips or advice on how to get a smoother finish as you do on your pair of C and J? Cheers, John
Hi,
Great blog and great shoes. I’ve come across many ways of looking after a pair of new shoes. What do you recommend when they first come out of the box? A light mink oiling? Cream and/or Polish? Nothing?
I have also come across people who belief one should use a neutral cream rather than a pigmented cream. How do yo see this?
Regards,
Nik
Hi Justin,
Thank you for the excellent post. I’ve grown to enjoy shining my shoes on a weekly to biweekly basis and look forward to it every Sunday (I tend to rotate between 3 pairs for work a week so I wear each pair twice a week). I do walk quite a bit but I am conscious to try not to scuff my shoes. Having said all that, if my shoes still look good after a week or two after my last polish do you think a simple shine (conditioner + 2 layers of wax polish) on a weekly/biweekly basis excessive?
Thank you in advance!
John – To be honest my friend, it could be a number of things like the softness of the cloth, the hardness of the polish or the amount (or lace thereof) of water that you are using….sorry but without knowing its hard to give advice…all the best with it!
Nick – Thanks for the kind words my friend! Shoes out of the box, a bit of mink oil and polish is good just to protect the shoe….do a high shine after you have worn them a few times, as the leather needs time to break in… as per the cream, well if the point of it is to rejuvenate color then the pigment is necessary, so I cannot agree with this train of thought….
Anon – looks like you have a good rhythm going but to answer your question, yes there is a point when it becomes too much….once a week is probably the most that I would say is allowable before the point of being unhealthy for the leather (if you are doing deep polishing – high shines). If your shoes are still looking good, simply brush downs is all that will suffice to keep off the dust and dirt….
thanks for writing
-Justin
I am fascinated about what I can learn here. Thank you. Just about two things I do not understand since I am very new in this: To remove the excess polish you use Nail polish remover or alcohol, but what tool do you use to avoid damage to the shoe?
Second, I am German and it is very difficult for me to follow the very special words for all the polish: Do I understand it right from your step-by-step, that you use three substances, not more
1, one phase of a repair, like your mink oil. I have in my box Something that is called Brillant Creme and something similar, Delicate cream, both remember me of moister creams women tend to use. I have here, too, Grassa de Caballo from Panama Jack, that seams to be wrong for that phase.
2, than some kind of creamy cream. I have here in my box Allen Edmonds Shoe Cream or Saphir Crme Surfine. Those are OK?
3, and only than the (bees)-wax based polish, that is applied in several phases. There you, as me, use the usual Kiwi Shoe Polish.
I would be very glad for help. From Germany, yours, Giorio.
To avoid damage to the shoe, I simply do not rub too hard….however one does not need to remove excess polish every time. Its only after they have polished their shoes an excessive amount of times and it is then starting to flake off….
As per the products I use well, here you are:
1. Yes a cream conditioner, like lotion to your skin
2. A cream/paste polish (like Kiwi or the Saphir that you were describing)
3. A wax polish. I don’t use kiwi for this as I don’t think that Kiwi is a true wax. I use kiwi for state two as a color rejuvenating product. In this step, I use my own products that you can find on my blog, under Shoe Snob Accessories
Hope that this helps
Justin
Hey Justin thanks for the great information! This has been very helpful, especially for me as a beginner. My question is have you ever heard of using navy blue Polish on black boots? I read this somewhere and would love to hear your opinion. Keep in mind I am polishing fairy cheep law enforcement issue black boots trying to accomplish a mirror shine. I would appreciate any advice you’re willing to give that might help me stand out and look professional. Thanks again for the great info!
Brandon
Hi Justin,
Fantastic site you have here. I never used to care much about keeping my shoes in great shape, but now that I seem to make a habit of buying nice shoes, I am obsessive about keeping them up.
What is the best way to keep the creases to a minimum. I have a new pair that seems to have developed creases fairly quickly. I appreciate your input, and thanks for all the information you have shared.
I appreciate that Mike!
Keeping creases to a minimum, well the only real way is to use shoe trees, but you can’t really stop them from coming, as they will be inevitable…the only way to keep them from getting worse is shoe trees and regular conditioning of the leather….
Hi Justin, Would you recommend putting a cream on the soles of leather shoes?
Many thanks, Nick.
I don’t find it necessary really…but I do know that some people do it…nothing is going to protect the soles from a really really wet day…other than galoshes.
That is interesting, about sole protection. What do you think of leather sole oil? They say, it can double the life of the sole. I here just bought Burgol leather sole oil 250, and it stinks, literally. But does letaher sole oil, in general, is a good idea?
They make a cult here in Germany out of Burgol, and i think, it is not a good Product line: The cream/paste polish does not go well into the pores. The wax is much too creamy!!! And the leather sole oil has an odor, that makes me feel pity for my shoes – let alone my nose.
Yours, Giorgio Stalker (who has now about 5, half of his shoes polished by the FitzPatrick method, and telling anyone, if he wants it or not, about it by name).
To be honest, I don’t think much of this claim about leather oil….sure it may help some when it is dry, but definitely not double the life of your sole….the only thing that is going to double the life of your sole are galoshes as a heavy rain day will permeate anything that you put on the sole…..
Glad that you have been enjoying my method and thanks for spreading it around!!
Justin, just wore a pair of Maison martin margiela’s a couple times. They are dove grey unfinished leather. Wanted to know what you recommened for the leather care on those. Just got a pair of LIGHT tan ones as well and I certainly don’t want to ruin my investment by trying to polish them. I’m ok with them not looking super glossy as they are a matte finish out of the box. I do want to protect them though and be able to clean them up after wear, light scuffs, etc. So far… matching color polish creme I found online or something like Urad is all I have for ideas. What do you recommend??
Thanks, Craig
Craig, if I am going to be honest, these types of leathers are a bit out of my league as they are so insanely difficult to maintain. The fact that they are matte and unfinished means that they are extremely absorbent and anything that you put on them (in terms of shoe shining product) will immediately darken them. Best to spray these with a protectant and then just be careful… A light lotion type product should help rejuvenate them when looking a bit tired…a cream polish will probably darken them if I am going to be honest, so it is hard to say my friend…sorry I can’t be of more help with these…
No worries, thank you for the reply
Thank you, perhaps shoe oil is really nothing for me, too, as far as my experience lasts.
I, Giorgio, now finally want to ask Justin the (in my opinion) utmost important question ever to ask about good full leather shoes: Do shoes have to die? Can I care for them so well, that they live my lifetime?
This is such a difficult question to answer generally, because, there are so many factors. For example, if you tell a 20-year-old that his box calf shoes will last his lifetime, you will lose the bet, if he wears them every day and goes trekking and jogging with them.
So my concrete example will be: I have 10 pairs of good shoes, Allen Edmonds, Quarvif, Lendvay & Schwarcz, Grensons, Lorenzo Banfi, etc., and some additional usual shoes with rubber soles for bad weather, Camel, Ladage & Oelcke, Sabelt. Four of the ten are new, the rest in very good shape. I now know the Care&Polish-Method from the ShoeSnob, and I have shoe trees. Sheer mathematics, this means, that every shoe in one year is used at the absolute maximum of 40 days a year (because, some shoes are worn more than others). They have a periodical use of a minimum break of about seven days and good care. So in 25 to 30 Years, each one of these shoes will have been worn about a 1000 times. Can a shoe survive that and last even longer? If you have any general idea about such numerical values, than also a man, that has 20 or five pairs of shoes and also the man with three pairs of shoes can evaluate and calculate, how long his shoes may last.
Dear Giorgio, no of course shoes don’t have to die, but there is no calculation that can prove this theory….like you stated, the variants of the equation will matter greatly…weather being a big factor….shoes have certainly outlived their owners, but whether or not they wore the pair over 1000 times would have been unknown to me….and to be honest, leather quality was not as good as it was 20-50 years ago, so whether or not the modern shoe can last that long, well I simply can’t say for sure, but in theory it should if treated properly….
Justin –
Is there anyone in the united states offering this ultimate polish service whom you would reccomend?
Cheers, st.tully